Friday, March 6, 2009

Nina Ricci, Theyskens ascends and Ghesquiere's lyrical beauty

Olivier Thesykens' potentially final collection for Nina Ricci was a major step forward in his development as a designer. His departure looks increasingly likely, and his brilliant fall/winter collection makes this possibility more intriguing. The specific reason that I feel that Theyskens has moved in to the upper echelon of designers is the balance that is obvious in this collection. Theyskens has always had the boldness of a designer who loves to create new shapes and structures. But with this collection there is a smoothness and an undeniable elegance in his designs. These clothes shine in their gem like brilliance, naturally fiery but refined.

There are a few designers whose collections I look forward to with heart racing anticipation. Nicholas Ghesquiere's efforts for Balenciaga always get me feverishly excited. The thing that makes it worth it season after season is he never disappoints. Ghesquiere as always is distinctive and often effortlessly elegant. This Fall/Winter collection is no different, beautifully draped skirts mixed with body flattering tops. He also featured some ethereally asymmetrical dresses colored with a soft palette yet still possessing great visual impact. Another imperial effort from this French fashion royalty.
Seth F.

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